A Rosé They Drink in Paris.
As the cyclists wrapped up the Paris-Nice race last week, the first major bike race of the year, many glasses of rosé were poured to toast the Race to the Sun.
For many wine lovers near and far, it marked the beginning of the season for sipping Provençal rosé, a virtual ticket to luxe seaside cafés of Nice, St. Tropez and Cannes.
At the pinnacle of Provençal rosés are the ones from Bandol, the tiny coastal village famous for age-worthy wines coveted by kings and queens. The Bandol imprimatur endures because there's nothing quite like this special appellation.
The key to the primacy of Bandol is its dominant grape variety, the brooding powerful Mourvèdre. Its rich flavors and deep structure allow the wines to age and need a little time to show their best. Producers looking for immediate consumption compensate with high percentages of lighter varieties such Cinsault and Grenache in their blend. But a handful of producers stand out by using a high percentage of Mourvèdre with an eye for the long haul.
One of these producers is Guilhem Tournier. His Bandol rosé is as authentic as it gets, a modern classic that sticks to tradition even tighter than his ancestors. No wonder Tournier’s rosé has become a staple at hip bistros from Paris to Provence.
Tournier loves Mourvèdre--and especially his Mourvèdre, which comes from massale selections from Ch. Beaucastel. He loves to say "Mourvèdre needs to see the sea" and his vines do, from high atop a steep hill overlooking the Bay of Bandol. His estate is just 4ha, so Tournier devotes the extra TLC on farming with horse and plough, biodynamics, so that the fruit conveys its special history.
In order to put Tournier rosé to the test we assembled a blind tasting with several esteemed sommeliers including a Master Sommelier. Our tasting included two vintages: first the 2021s against 5 other Bandol rosés; second, a library tasting of 2018 Bandol rosé including the standard-bearer, Tempier. First, the 2021 flight:
Blind Tasting Flight: Bandol Rosé 2021
In the 2021 Rosé tasting, Guilhem Tournier took the top spot. It’s not the cheapest because the quality allows it. Here's what the panel had to say:
Cantaloupe, sweet watermelon on the nose, robust on the palate with bitter grapefruit pith finish.
Textbook cooper/pink color; polished glossy texture with nice rounded mouthfeel; really well made.
Love the nose, bright, pure, incredible texture, focused.
For the second round we looked at the 2018 vintage against Bandol icons Dom. Tempier and Ch. Pradeaux, both known for their classic style and longevity.
Blind Tasting Flight: Bandol Rosé 2018
The result was a three-way tie among our blind tasters with each tasted having a different favorite. The Tournier clearly belongs in this lofty company.
Highlights from our tasters about Tournier Rose 2018:
If you want a tasty Bandol, this is the one
Spicy nose, floral, dried orange peel, garrigue, acidity that convinces you
Great texture, long finish, right there
Sweet spot between youth and vinous character
It's a damn fine wine that'll have your customers raising a glass and thanking you for.